I recently got to test the Aviator Pants Pattern by Winter Wear Designs. I tested the size 8 and made pants (pattern also includes a shorts option). These are such a cute design with the triangle feature at the bottom of the legs and the welt and cargo pockets (which I chose to leave off this pair). The pattern is exclusively available in the Boys Bundle-Up over at Pattern Revolution. Starting September 12, the pattern will be available individually at The Winter Wear Designs Etsy Shop.
As you can see, I switched up the welt pockets and made zippered welt pockets instead. I love the look of zippered welt pockets and I think they are actually easier to do than standard welts, so I choose them a lot…especially on my boys’ clothes! Here’s a little tutorial on how to add zippered welt pockets to the Aviator Pants/Shorts Pattern. The same general instructions apply to other patterns as well, but I have used this patterns’ current welt pockets as a guide for placement of the zippered welts! This is the first time I have ever attempted to write a tutorial and I’m not the greatest with photography so forgive any imperfections ;-). For this tutorial, I cut a size 4 pair of shorts for my younger son and let him pick out the zippers (green, of course). I have been so busy lately, I have yet to finish these, but I will definitely show them off once I do!!
Ok, so these instructions will obviously replace the instructions in the pattern tutorial for the Double Welt Pockets, but you’ll still construct everything else the same!
First, you’ll want to cut your welt pockets 2″ shorter in length than the pattern says, but still the same width. So, for my size 4, I cut 2 welt pockets that were 6.25″ x 13″ (W x L) even though the pattern said to cut them 6.25″ x 15″. This just takes away for not having to fold the pockets to make the little welt flaps. In addition to your modified welt pieces and pants/shorts pieces, you will also need two zippers. The zippers obviously have to be wider than the width of the welts…so greater than 3.75″ for sizes 18m and 2t, greater than 4.5″ for sizes 3t – 7, and greater than 5.25″ for sizes 8-14. I used all 7″ zippers for my 2 pairs, so it’s fine if they are bigger…you will just cut them off!
So once you get to the instructions on page 9 for “Double Welt Pockets”, switch over here and grab your Back fabric pieces and pattern pieces
(1) Cut out the welt pocket just on the paper pattern piece (NOT on the fabric piece!!)
(2) Next, place one of your welt pocket pieces right sides facing on top of one of your fabric pieces. I placed the welt pocket 1/2″ below the top of the pants and centered it horizontally. The right side of your back fabric piece should be facing up, and your welt pocket piece will be on top with the right side facing down! My back shorts piece is white and black striped and my welt pocket piece is black/white gingham.
(3) Using a fabric marker, you are going to draw your welt pocket, but you need to make it only 1/2″ tall by the same width. The original double welt pocket is 1″ tall to allow for 2 x 1/2″ welt flaps, but you need to halve this for a zippered welt. So, I drew the vertical lines according to the hole in the pattern piece, but drew the bottom horizontal line 1/4″ from the bottom of the original hole and the top line 1/4″ from the top.
(4) Next, I ironed on a piece of interfacing just around the welt and pinned the welt to the back shorts piece. I probably could have pinned in an earlier step, but I did the line drawing and the ironing of the interfacing all on my ironing board, so it didn’t move around.
(5) Now sew on the lines you drew around the whole rectangle welt, stopping and pivoting at corners. Back stitch at the end.
(6) Make a cut in the center of the welt along the width, but stop and cut diagonally into each corner about 1/4″ from the end. Cut in as close as you can get to each corner without cutting into the stitches.
(7) Pull the entire welt piece through the hole you cut, flip the pant/short piece over, and iron it neat and flat on the wrong side of the pant/short piece. Here is a picture of my ironed piece at this stage, flipped over with the wrong side of my shorts facing up and the right side of the welt piece facing up as well.
(8) Flip your pants/shorts back over so you see the right side with the welt pocket down and place/pin the zipper in place. I chose to make the zippers open from the middle seam out to the sides on these, because for some reason that is what makes sense to me, but on the pants I mistakenly did the opposite and I think it looks fine as long as both are done symmetrically! Again, I used 7″ zippers here, so there is some excess hanging off at the end that will get cut off.
(9) Top-stitch the zipper in place using a zipper foot and getting close to the edge of the fabric.
(10) Turn around to wrong side of pant/short and snip off the end of the zipper past the stitching line, but at least 3/8″ in from the edge of the welt pocket piece.
(11) Fold up the bottom of the welt piece so the bottom edge meets the top edge and encloses the zipper.
(12) Sew and/or serge around the sides and top of the pocket to enclose the entire pocket. I just serged it.
(13). Wooohoooo! You are done with one zippered welt! Stand back and admire it and then do the other side the exact same way! Once you are done with the zippered welts, construct the rest according to the pattern tutorial!
I can’t wait to finish these awesome black/white striped shorts with bright green zippers! I will definitely show them off soon! Here’s a few more pics of the awesome pants I made. Don’t forget to get the pattern and some others in your Bundle-Up